Diavolezza - Bellavista - Piz Bernina - Morteratsch

A long way from Geneva to tick off another 4000m peak. Probably spent almost as much time in trains than on skis. But well worth the trip. Since we weren't sure about the conditions on the Piz Palü traverse (several groups did it in the end) we decided on the entertaining Fortezza traverse. Climbing with skis on the back certainly provides an extra challenge. But we were essentially alone with just two other groups on the ridge. Similarly for the ski summit of the Bellavista, which only saw a few groups doing it.

The Piz Bernina climb was surprisingly straightforward and pleasant thanks to the very good conditions. We started first from Marco e Rosa and there was only one other couple in front of us (who started at 1am from Morteratsch, bravo!) and a few behind. All others arrive much later from the Boval hut or Diavolezza.

Overall good conditions. Glaciers seems well covered. Good skin tracks everywhere. Short ski carry when coming down from Diavolezza to the glacier. Very good conditions on Piz Bernina. The climbing difficulties on the Spallagrat can be entirely avoided by traversing the snow field on the east face on a very good boot track. Not much snow at lower altitude means the skiing ends at the glacier caves at Morteratsch.

Day 1 (06:15 - 14:45)

2h20 skinning to start of Fortezza ridge 1h30 climbing on the Fortezza ridge 1h30 to Bellavista summit 1h30 to Marco e Rosa Total 8h30 (moving time 6h45)

Day 2 (06:00 - 13:00)

1h20 to ski depot 1h to summit 1h back down to skis 1h20 ski down 1h hike back to Morteratsch Total 7h (moving time 5h50)

Warm, sunny and no clouds on both days.

5-star experience at Diavolezza "hut". 90 CHF for the dorm including a very good 4-course menu is similar to regular alpine huts. Unbeatable views and a jacuzzi on the terrasse if you want (and pay).

Friendly welcome at Rifugio Marco e Rosa, which was not even half full (on a Saturday night!). Probably because not many people were aware that the hut was even guarded in spring (and in fact it closed on Sunday April 26th). Choice of food for primo and secondo. The guardian is a character but we got along very well with him.