Agassizjoch: Traverse from Finsteraarhornhütte to Aarbiwak

Ascend the Agassizjoch Follow the associated route respectively the swisstopo trace from the Finsteraarhornhut. While not necessary, it is recommended to continue and ski the beautiful Agassizhorn S-face (+200m). Descend the Agassizjoch E-Couloir Do a 15m rappel, skis already attached, into the couloir from a well-equipped (2026) rappel point (see remarks below). Descend the steep couloir (tentative rating: 5.1/E3, top close to 50°, end towards 45°, rocks close by). Pay attention to the Bergschrund. Optional/Variant: Nass Strahlegg and its E-couloir While not necessary, reascend the Nass Strahlegg, which gives an amazing overview of the area (+200m). In its E-face, there's also a couloir starting at P.3381 which gives faster access to the Aarbiwak (tentative rating (not skied): 4.3). Reach the Aarbiwak Desend the crevassed Finsteraargletscher and from its bottom reascend the Aarbiwak according to the swisstopo trace.

An elegant way to access the Aarbiwak form the Fiescher-area without doing the infinite approach from the Grimsel.

Agassizjoch E-Couloir The snow conditions might vary considerably. The associated pictures were made May 2026 after a rather dry winter/spring. In very good conditions, no rappel might be needed while in even worse conditions, more than 15m should be considered. The top-half of the couloir gets already completely dry in summer and thus does not change anymore, the bottom-half is still ice/firn and might as-well get closer to 50° and narrower over the next years. The couloir gets immediate morning sun. In warm spring conditions, a descend ca. 2h after sunrise should be envisaged. Pay attention to rockfall. Others The variant from Nass Strahlegg avoids the crevassed Finsteraargletscher but is also oriented E (timing!). If the moraine below the bivouac is already dry, it is easier to leave the skis directly there. The indicated data includes the ascent of Agassizhorn and Nass Strahlegg with descent via the Finsteraargletscher.